The purpose of the Pinewood Derby is to help the Cub Scout build a team relationship with their parent or helper, to experience the sense of accomplishment and the excitement of competition, to learn good sportsmanship, and to have fun.

The model cars are made of wood to specified dimensions, created, carved, assembled, and decorated by Cub Scouts under the guidance (and limited assistance) of the parents or helpers. The cars are gravity powered and run down a special track.

Like all successful events, it requires some planning and preparation, but the payoff in fun and strengthening family relationships has been proven over the years.

• NEW CAR:The car must be built this year. Cars from earlier years are not valid.
• OFFICIAL KIT: The car MUST be built by the Cub with his parents' assistance from the "Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit".
• WHEELS AND AXLES: The car must use wheels and axles supplied in the official kit. Solid axles are not allowed. No springs or suspension systems. The built-in axle slots in the block MUST be used. Axles may be glued into the car. Any burrs or mold excess may be sanded off. No rounding or reshaping is permitted. Excessive sanding or work done to wheels will not be permitted. No bearings, washers or bushings or other "non-kit" additions are allowed.
• SELF STARTING: Cars will be started simultaneously by gate lever.
• LUBRICATION: Only dry powder graphite or white BSA heel and Axle Lubicant may be used to lubricate wheels and axles. No oil, grease or silicone lubricants are allowed.
• LOOSE ITEMS: Any decorations or added weight must be attached permanently to the car with glue, nails, screws, etc. The finished car with details must meet the maximum length, width and weight rules.
• WEIGHT: The car (including paint, decals and decorations) may be a maximum of 5 ounces. The Pack scale will be official for all cars regardless of any other claims. Weight changes are permitted during the registration period, but not once the race has started.
• DIMENSIONS: The car must be 7 inches long or less. The car must be 2 3/4 inches wide or less. The wheels must be 1 3/4 inches apart. The car must have clearance above the track of at least 3/8 inches.
• RACE OFFICIALS: To ensure fairness, race officials will make final judgments on the qualifications of all cars. Race officials will suggest reasonable adjustments to the cars before any disqualification.
• IMPOUND AREA: After wiegh-in, no cars will leave the impound area. Re-lubricating of wheels will not be permitted once the cars are impounded.
• CRASHES: If a car leaves the track or a wheel comes off before the car reaches the finish line, the race will be rerun. A one-time five minute pit stop will be allowed to repair the car. The Official Pack mechanic will make all repairs.
• RACE FORMAT: The race format will be announced prior to races based on the number of participants. Each Den will race to determine a Den winner; the Den winners will race to determine a division winner; the division winners will race to determine a Pack winner.
• RACE DIVISIONS: There will be separate races for each of the following divisions: Tigers, Wolves, Bears, and Webelos.
• DISTRICT PINEWOOD DERBY: The top three racers in each division are invited to participate in the District Pinewood Derby. Two entrees will be allowed for Most Original and Best Design. These scouts may also choose to race. Trophies will be awarded to the top three winners in each race division and to the Most Original and Best Design in each division. All participants will receive some token of participation as yet to be decided. The District Pinewood Derby will be held on

Weight and wheel preparation appear to be the most important considerations; you want the weight to come in as close to 5 ounces as possible. Cylindrical weights are the easiest to use since you can just drill the correct size hole at the end, saw the cylinders to the right length, and then slide it in (they can be made to look like exhaust pipes, and can be any length to get the desired weight).

Plain Enamelon type spray paint works surprisingly well and dries very quickly; the "official" model paints are complicated, require primer, and have a long drying time.

Work on the wheels, axles, and their placement apparently pays off; you may want get an axle polishing kit (a chuck for holding axle in hand drill and grit for polishing it) and use it; shave the plastic ridge off of the wheels. Making sure that the car tracks straight is quite important (push it on the floor and see if it goes in a straight line); make sure the car has the right clearance and meets the required dimensions.

Decals, driver models, etc are easy add-ons.